Acne Culprits

Description

Acne Treatment Options

1. Genetics

Genes play a big role in the make up of your skin. Take a look at your parents' skin or ask them about their skin history and that should give you an idea of your own skin issues.

Some people are just blessed with beautiful skin genes and can sleep in a tub of lard everyday without getting a single pimple. Others, like me, are not as blessed.

My dad has bad breakouts and huge pores, but my mom has porcelain skin. The only thing she uses is Vaseline, believe it or not. And who do I take after? My dad, of course. Life's just not fair sometimes.

There's nothing you can do about your genetic makeup. However, if your parents have decent skin now, then you likely won't be cursed with acne for life.

In fact, if your parents had skin issues, whatever they did to treat them might work for you. Of course, do your own follow-up research because acne products and acne treatments have evolved as information and technology have improved.

While you can't change the genes you inherited, having a good skin care routine and looking into different acne treatments will definitely help. It's more nurture than nature in this case.

2. Hormones

The most obvious examples of hormonal acne is the acne you get during puberty, menstrual cycles, pregnancy, and menopause.

Hormonal acne, especially adult acne, tends to occur around the chin and jaw line. Women typically experience more adult hormonal acne than men because of their periods.

In my experience, hormonal acne is also the kind of acne that hurts and shows up randomly with no apparent reason. So, if you get lots of deep pimples and/or cysts, there's a good chance those are related to your hormones.

Keep a diary of your pimples and see if they pop up around the same time every month. Tracking your acne and taking detailed notes of when they occur during your cycle (if you are female) will help you get a better understanding of how your skin works.

You can also get your hormone levels checked to see if they are normal. Though if you do have hormonal imbalances, they would probably manifest themselves in other aspects of your health. Be aware that some hormonal sensitivies are too small to show up on medical tests though.

Topical treatments can only do so much for hormonal acne, but they can help mitigate the situation. Supplements, oral contraceptives, and spironolactone are other alternatives. Some people find that fish oil or omega-3s help regulate hormones, as well as drinking spearmint tea. Whatever the case, how you respond to certain treatments is largely individualistic and you must research each treatment thoroughly before trying them out.

3. Bacteria

P. acnes, the acne bacteria, gets a pretty bad rep. People assume that you kill the bacteria and you kill the acne. However, p. acnes exists on everyone's skin, whether it's clear or riddled with pimples.

P. acnes feeds off sebum. With acne-prone skin, there is usually an overproduction of sebum or sebum doesn't get sloughed off properly and gets trapped in hair follicles, either way creating fertile grounds for p. acnes growth.

You can kill off p. acnes, but it will keep coming back as long as it can make a home in your skin. Destroy the home and destroy the bacteria.

Topical or oral antibiotics kill bacteria. I don't like taking oral ones because they obliterate all the bacteria in your system, both good and bad. However, people respond differently to different treatments.

Antibiotics may work initially, but I don't think they're a long-term solution for clear skin. Most dermatologists prescribe them with a retinoid to reduce purging and jump start the clearing process. Antibiotics are, in my opinion, a sidekick product. You can kill off bacteria, but you still have to keep your skin healthy so p. acnes can't settle down in its home.

Other topicals, such as benzoyl peroxide, also help to kill surface bacteria.

4. Cosmetically Related Acne

This is the kind of acne you get when you use a new product and start to break out.

It could be from makeup, sunscreen, products with ingredients that clog your pores, irritating fragrance from fabric softeners, or even irritation from toothpaste.

It could also be hygiene related, such as improperly removing makeup and/or sunscreen, not cleaning cell phones, not changing pillow cases often, or using dirty makeup brushes.

These breakouts usually subside once you stop using the particular product.

Practice proper hygiene: Thoroughly (but gently) clean your skin, remove waterproof makeup and sunscreen before bed, use allergen-free detergents/softeners, clean cell phones, change pillow cases, etc.

Introduce new products to your skin care routine one at a time so you can tell which products are breaking you out. When you use more than one new product at the same time, you don't have as good an idea of which product is doing what.

Look at product ingredient lists to see which ingredients are potentially irritating and steer clear of pore clogging ingredients. Products labeled "non-comedogenic" are generally safe, but everything depends on how your skin reacts, so it's best to research ingredients lists of those products too.

5. Food Allergies or Sensitivies

Food allergies are very subtle but they can pack a big punch in the acne department. These include a sensitivity to milk, dairy, iodine, gluten, biotin, sugar, soy, etc.

If you have acne from food sensitivities, the pimples might take 4-5 days to show up after eating a particular food. For example, if you eat shrimp one day and break out the next, that's too short a time span to tell if the shrimp was the actual acne culprit, unless you had an allergic reaction.

Keep a daily food journal and track when you get breakouts.

You can isolate milk, iodine-rich foods (seafood, iodized salt), or whatever food sensitivity of your choice from your diet one at a time to see if your skin gets better. Some people also see their skin get better after switching to organic milk because of fewer hormones in the milk.

Otherwise, you can get an allergy test to see if you are allergic to anything. Slight food sensitivities, however, may not show up in allergy test panels.

6. Poor Cell Turnover Rate

This is when dead skin cells are not being shed at the proper rate and contribute to pore blockage, which then leads to acne.

Manual and/or chemical exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs, retinoids) can help your skin shed properly.

However, there is a fine line between exfoliating your skin and overdoing it. It's very easy to cross that line, so when you exfoliate, you want to do it gently.

7. Disturbed Skin Barrier Function

When your skin is irritated (red, flaky, itchy, stingy) or overly dry, it can make you more vulnerable to p.acnes.

With poor skin barrier function, your skin doesn't do a good job protecting itself and keeping itself healthy.

This is one of the reasons why people with dry skin can get acne, when acne is usually associated with oily skin.

This is also why some people see their skin improve after using "nothing" for awhile. Often when you use too many products and do too much to your skin, you can self-induce acne from irritation.

Use gentle products (particularly cleansers) instead of harsh ones so you don't wash away your skin's natural moisture.

Don't use harsh scrubs either, because you could be giving your skin microscopic tears!

I think this is part of the reason why some people see their skin clear up after using "nothing" or "water only" because their skin finally gets a break and a chance to recover.

Look at your skin and listen to what it's telling you. Even though most acne treatments instruct you to apply the product twice a day everyday, you shouldn't do that if your skin is sensitive or irritated. Don't be too aggressive!

8. Underlying Health Problems

Underlying health problems can also cause acne.

These include candida, thyroid problems, PCOS, diabetes, digestive imbalances, and metabolism issues.

While the presence of acne isn't enough to make a diagnosis for any illness, acne can be a symptom of underlying health problems.

Consult your doctor if you are experiencing other health related symptoms.

9. Stress, Lack of Sleep

Stress can wreak havoc on skin and worsen acne symptoms. But it isn't so direct a cause of acne that every time you feel stressed, you instantly get a new pimple. The alternative, being stress-free, also doesn't guarantee clear skin.

Sleep is also very important, not only for your skin, but also so your body can repair itself as you rest.

While it's close to impossible to be stress-free, try not to stress out too much. Breathe deeply, meditate, exercise, think happy thoughts, take regular breaks, or simply count to ten!

Also, try to keep a normal sleeping schedule so your circadian rhythms don't get out of whack. My Chinese medicine doctor always says to sleep early (10pm) and wake early (6am).

10. Overly Active Sebaceous Glands

This is usually what happens during puberty, when hormonal changes cause oil glands to change, producing more oil, and creating a fertile environment for p. acnes.

Topical acne treatments can help. Using oil blotters throughout the day so excess oil won’t be sitting on the surface of your skin is another option. However, your skin does need some oils to function properly!

As a last resort, Accutane can help eliminate oil production, but it is a very serious drug, so proper research and consideration must be taken before going on it.

11. Diet

While Western dermatologists don't think there is a connection between diet and acne, most Asian dermatologists are more willing to make this link.

Too much sugar, alcohol, caffeine, etc. can aggravate acne.

Meat, dairy, and soy also contain hormones that you may be sensitive to. This goes back to having food allergies.

My dermatologist in Taiwan actually advises his patients to eat less sugar, drink less coffee, and avoid alcohol, peanuts, and eggplants.

You could try switching to an organic diet to see if your skin improves.

Or you can try eliminating certain foods from your diet, but eliminating them doesn't necessarily mean you will clear your skin.

I find that when I eat less processed foods, my skin looks calmer. I don't break out if I eat french fries or chocolate, but when I eat a lot of junk food, I feel like my skin looks a bit more haggard. Too much sweets and refined sugar does the same thing.

I think diet helps your overall skin condition, but unless your acne is from a food allergy, you would probably need another treatment boost.

12. Toxin Build-Up

Toxins can build up in your body through constipation or poor liver/kidney/intestinal function.

When this happens, the build up gets released through your skin, resulting in acne.

Some people think sweat can cause acne, but in my experience (and I sweat a lot), sweat is a good thing for your skin. Toxins aren't sweat out either.

Many people believe that when your body isn't getting rid of toxins properly, the toxins will show up as acne on your skin. I tend to think that your body cleanses itself (internally) just fine, but to each his own.

Possible treatment options for toxin-induced acne include internal cleanses (Not to be taken lightly; these can be very dangerous without professional medical guidance) or dietary changes.

13. Mixed Signals

A lot of the times, acne lesions can be mistaken for Rosacea flares, different types of dermatitis, and/or keratosis pilaris.

A qualified dermatologist will be able to give you an accurate diagnosis. Though I would probably get at least 2 opinions because a lot of these skin conditions look quite similar and can easily mistaken for one another.

Type

Function

Food Sources

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin. It helps with skin healing and regulates sebum production. Vitamin A also helps skin function as a barrier to bacteria and viruses.

Some people claim that high doses of Vitamin A will help treat acne. However, high doses of Vitamin A can be toxic and dangerous. Always check with your doctor before beginning such an oral regimen.

Vitamin B Complex

Vitamin B is broken down into individual vitamins such as vitamin B12, B6, etc. Each type of vitamin B aids bodily functions in a certain way (details here). Together, all the B vitamins help maintain healthy skin. It is actually thought that a deficiency in Vitamin B5 (or pantothenic acid) can cause acne.

There's a regimen floating around on the internet claiming that ingesting large doses of Vitamin B5 will clear your skin. I admit I didn't try this long enough to see any results, but the thought of taking mega-doses of vitamins just doesn't agree with me. Who knows how safe that can be.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can be applied topically or ingested orally. Vitamin C helps with collagen production, wound healing, and skin elasticity. It also fights free radicals in the body and boosts your immune system.

Vitamin C comes in many different forms but is usually sold as ascorbic acid or Ester C.

Vitamin D

Vitamin D is necessary for overall health and well-being. It improves calcium absorption for maintaining healthy bones and muscles. Vitamin D is also thought to help cell growth reduce inflammation.

Vitamin D is synthesized by our skin when it is exposed to sunlight. Because many of us wear sunscreen or are indoors for the majority of the day (during work or school), it is important to get enough Vitamin D, either through supplements or through sunlight.

Although the sun causes aging and cancer, researchers believe that as little as 10 minutes of sun exposure will allow our bodies to synthesize adequate amounts of Vitamin D. Alternatively, Vitamin D2 or D3 is available as supplements. Vitamin D2 is plant-synthesized. Vitamin D3 is synthesized by animal forms and is the type of Vitamin D our bodies make when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

Omega-3

Omega-3s have many important health benefits. They lower triglycerides and keep your heart healthy. They are also anti-inflammatory and can help stabilize your hormones. Some people with dry skin and eyes have reported feeling less dry after taking omega-3 supplements.

While some people say they break out from fish oil or other Omega-3 supplements, it could be from Omega-6 and 9 in the supplement. Western diets are often Omega-6 heavy, which can cause an imbalance in Omega 3-6-9. Sugar or other fillers in the supplement could be responsible for breakouts as well. In general, Omega-3s shouldn't cause you to break out unless you are allergic to them or if the capsules aren't clean enough, but it all depends on how you react.

You want to make sure whatever Omega-3 you buy is pure and free of metal toxins and hasn't gone rancid. You can't really tell if you take Omega-3 capsules, but you can test their freshness by puncturing them and seeing if they smell rancid. Purchase supplements from a reputable brand and make sure they are not expired.

Zinc

Zinc is a mineral that helps to regulate androgenic activity in your body (androgens are responsible for things like body hair and acne). It is also important for regulating oil production, fighting free radicals, and helping with scar healing. It helps to repair skin damage and heal wounds.

You should take approximately 25-75 mg per day. Taking more than that can reduce your body's absorption of copper and cause other unwanted side effects. In fact, if you are taking 50mg of zinc, it's a good idea to take 5mg of copper as well because you can become deficient in copper when you take zinc.